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The standard way to hard-boil eggs—ten minutes in boiling water—is far from ideal, according to physical chemist Hervé This. Egg whites and yolks are made up of protein and water; yolks contain fat as well. As eggs cook, their balled-up proteins uncoil into strands, and the strands bind together to form an intricate mesh that traps water. In essence, the proteins form a gel, a liquid dispersed in a solid. Boiling causes too many egg proteins to bind and form dense meshes, yielding rubbery egg whites and sandy, grayish yolks.
But exploiting egg-protein chemistry allows egg cooking to be very precisely calibrated. Ovotransferrin, the first of the egg-white proteins to uncoil, begins to set at around 61°C. Ovalbumin, the most abundant egg white protein, coagulates at 84°C. Yolk proteins mostly fall in between, with most starting to solidify when they approach 70°C. Using a laboratory oven, Dr This cooks eggs at 65°C for about an hour, timing not being critical. The results, with the whites delicately set and the yolks still orange and soft, make it clear why 65-degree eggs are becoming the rage among chefs in France. (Salmonella cannot survive more than a few minutes at 60°C, so a 65-degree egg cooked for an hour should be quite safe.)
But exploiting egg-protein chemistry allows egg cooking to be very precisely calibrated. Ovotransferrin, the first of the egg-white proteins to uncoil, begins to set at around 61°C. Ovalbumin, the most abundant egg white protein, coagulates at 84°C. Yolk proteins mostly fall in between, with most starting to solidify when they approach 70°C. Using a laboratory oven, Dr This cooks eggs at 65°C for about an hour, timing not being critical. The results, with the whites delicately set and the yolks still orange and soft, make it clear why 65-degree eggs are becoming the rage among chefs in France. (Salmonella cannot survive more than a few minutes at 60°C, so a 65-degree egg cooked for an hour should be quite safe.)
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